Designer Skincare Brands & Their Promised Results Based On ‘Scientific Research’

Designer Skincare Brands & Their Promised Results Based On ‘Scientific Research’

Did you know that many of your favorite beauty brands’ Retinol/Vitamin A products are touting false claims of efficacy? 

In the realm of skincare, the promise of turning back the clock often leads us to purchase any product with the well known anti-aging ingredient ‘Retinol’ right on the front packaging.

As consumers, we’ve all heard about Retinol/Retin-A or Tretinoin. So we believe any brands that a.) include the ingredient in their product and b.) include a scientific statistic proving the ‘efficiency’ of the product.

Over-the-counter retinol products (retinol) have gained immense popularity, celebrated for their purported ability to diminish wrinkles, reverse sun damage, and rejuvenate the face. 

But when we delve deeper into the research, the scientific studies and the fine print, we uncover a stark truth that often remains hidden behind the glossy marketing facade.

Studies on prescription-strength retinol (Retin-A or tretinoin) exhibit impressive results in tackling signs of aging, from fine lines to sun-induced skin damage. 

These results however, are influenced by the strength of the ingredient and the derivative of Vitamin A; which means that the skin rejuvenation takes place when a specific amount of the ingredient and a specific form of Vitamin A is used.

While prescription retin A studies are robust and scientifically backed, the same cannot be said for their over-the-counter counterparts, where the amount of active ingredients won’t be enough to influence skin regeneration. 

These products, despite using a retinoid lack substantial evidence to support claims of significant efficacy in reducing wrinkles, reversing sun damage, or achieving substantial facial rejuvenation.

BUT HERE’S WHAT MAKES ME ANGRY….

Certain brands are using statistical data and findings from prescription Retin A studies on their packaging and marketing material, to validate their over-the-counter retinol products. 

😮😮😮

They get away with this by the mere fact that retinol is a retinoid so belongs to the same family of vitamin A derivatives. 

This misrepresentation blurs the line between scientific evidence and marketing gimmicks, creating a misleading impression of the product's capabilities.

To recap - many of your favorite skincare brands that sell a ‘Retinol’ cream/serum/moisturizer claim this product transforms skin by referencing the scientific studies of a DIFFERENT POTENCY OF INGREDIENT and POORLY CONDUCTED RESEARCH!

Here’s another example of this misleading practice and how dangerous it could be:

Anesthesia works - we have scientific research to back up the fact that with the right AMOUNT and correct by-product of a particular anesthetic ingredient, you could be run over by a truck, or say, give birth, without feeling A THING.

Now imagine someone starts manufacturing an over-the-counter anesthetic.

They’ve got pretty packaging, some cool influencers posting reels about it, and on the label it says “Contains morphine, scientifically proven to effectively anesthetize an elephant’.

Except that the AMOUNT and by-product of morphine in this new, over the counter product is 0.5% of what the studies were using and is a different class of morphine to conduct experiments. 

So you’re gonna feel that truck. Or that baby. 🤯🤯🤯

This discrepancy between the efficacy of prescription retinol product versus an over-the-counter retinol product is not just a matter of potency, but also a question of integrity. 

Consumers invest their trust and hard-earned money in these big brands, expecting tangible results based on marketed promises. However, the reality often falls short, leading to disappointment and a sense of betrayal.

It's crucial to shed light on this issue to ensure that consumers make informed decisions.

My goal for the Beauty Reviews Series is to use my extensive research experience and years of practicing both nursing and Chinese Medicine to encourage you to ask questions about miraculous claims and to do your research properly.

Understanding the limitations and nuances between prescription (Retin A/Tretinoin) and over-the-counter retinol is vital in managing expectations and making conscientious choices about your skincare investments.

I believe it's time for transparency and ethical practices within the skincare industry. 

Let's advocate for a more honest dialogue about the capabilities of over-the-counter retinol products, eliminating the smoke and mirrors that often shroud their actual efficacy.

As we navigate the vast sea of skincare products, let's stand together in promoting awareness and demanding transparency from brands. 

Stay informed, ask questions, and make empowered choices for your skincare journey.

And together, let's strive for a more transparent and honest skincare industry.

My Trusted, Scientific Research Sources

I love using the Wiley Online Library. 

The excellent journals related to dermatology include The Australasian Journal of Dermatology, The British Journal of Dermatology, The Journal of Traditional Chinese Medicine and The American Journal of Traditional Chinese Medicine. 

These journals keep me up to date with new treatments, skin enhancing devices and new ingredients that have been studied. 

The websites that I find most reliable and useful for checking serious skin diseases, the safety of ingredients and potential side effects from unsafe ingredients are Dermnet, and The Environmental Working Group Cosmetic Database.

 

 

 

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References

 

  1. Spierings N.M.K, Evidence for the Efficacy of Over-the-counter Vitamin A Cosmetic Products in the Improvement of Facial Skin Aging: A Systematic Review. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, Vol 14 (9), 2021. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8675340/ Available at. Accessed 14 October, 2023. [PubMed] [Google Scholar]
  2. Connor MJ, Smit MH. The formation of all-trans-retinoic acid from all-trans-retinol in hairless mouse skin. Biochem Pharmacol. 1987;36(6):919–924. [PubMed] [Google Scholar]
  3. Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327–348. [PMC free article] [PubMed] [Google Scholar]
  4. LLC VPNA. RENOVA ® (TRETINOIN CREAM) 0.02% Package Insert.; 2000.
  5. Kang S, Bergfeld W, Gottlieb AB et al. Long-term efficacy and safety of tretinoin emollient cream 0.05% in the treatment of photodamaged facial skin: a two-year, randomized, placebo-controlled trial. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):245–253. [PubMed] [Google Scholar]
  6. Kurlandsky SB, Xiao JH, Duell EA et al. Biological activity of all-trans retinol requires metabolic conversion to all-trans retinoic acid and is mediated through activation of nuclear retinoid receptors in human keratinocytes. J Biol Chem. 1994;269(52):32821–32827. [PubMed] [Google Scholar]
  7. Kang S, Duell EA, Fisher GJ et al. Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid but without measurable retinoic acid levels or irritation. J Invest Dermatol. 1995;105(4):549–556. [PubMed] [Google Scholar]
  8. Scientific Commmittee on Soncusmer Safety. Final Version of the Opinion on Vitamin A (Retinol, Retinyl Acetate and Retinyl Palmitate) and Corrigendum. https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_199.pdf Available at. Accessed May 17, 2020. [PubMed]
  9. Diana Draelos Z. Therapeutic moisturizers. Dermatol Clin. 2000;18(4):597–607. [PubMed] [Google Scholar]
  10. Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA). Confidence in Cosmetic Claims. https://www.ctpa.org.uk/file.php?fileid=3330 Available at. Accessed May 17, 2020.
  11. A-Passioni Retinol Cream by Drunk Elephant | Cult Beauty. https://www.cultbeauty.co.uk/drunk-elephant-a-passioni-retinol-cream.html Available at. Accessed May 17, 2020.
  12. Jadad AR, Moore RA, Carroll D et al. Assessing the quality of reports of randomized clinical trials: is blinding necessary? Control Clin Trials. 1996;17(1):1–12. [PubMed] [Google Scholar]
  13. Kim H, Kim N, Jung S et al. Improvement in skin wrinkles from the use of photostable retinyl retinoate: a randomized controlled trial. Br J Dermatol. 2010;162(3):497–502. [PubMed] [Google Scholar
  14. Connor MJ, Smit MH. The formation of all-trans-retinoic acid from all-trans-retinol in hairless mouse skin. Biochem Pharmacol. 1987;36(6):919–924. [PubMed] [Google Scholar]
  15. Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327–348. [PMC free article] [PubMed] [Google Scholar]
  16. LLC VPNA. RENOVA ® (TRETINOIN CREAM) 0.02% Package Insert.; 2000.
  17. Kang S, Bergfeld W, Gottlieb AB et al. Long-term efficacy and safety of tretinoin emollient cream 0.05% in the treatment of photodamaged facial skin: a two-year, randomized, placebo-controlled trial. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):245–253. [PubMed] [Google Scholar]
  18. Kurlandsky SB, Xiao JH, Duell EA et al. Biological activity of all-trans retinol requires metabolic conversion to all-trans retinoic acid and is mediated through activation of nuclear retinoid receptors in human keratinocytes. J Biol Chem. 1994;269(52):32821–32827. [PubMed] [Google Scholar]
  19. Kang S, Duell EA, Fisher GJ et al. Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid but without measurable retinoic acid levels or irritation. J Invest Dermatol. 1995;105(4):549–556. [PubMed] [Google Scholar]
  20. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety. Final Version of the Opinion on Vitamin A (Retinol, Retinyl Acetate and Retinyl Palmitate) and Corrigendum. https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_199.pdf Available at. Accessed May 17, 2020. [PubMed]
  21. Diana Draelos Z. Therapeutic moisturizers. Dermatol Clin. 2000;18(4):597–607. [PubMed] [Google Scholar]
  22. Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA). Confidence in Cosmetic Claims. https://www.ctpa.org.uk/file.php?fileid=3330 Available at. Accessed May 17, 2020.
  23. A-Passioni Retinol Cream by Drunk Elephant | Cult Beauty. https://www.cultbeauty.co.uk/drunk-elephant-a-passioni-retinol-cream.html Available at. Accessed May 17, 2020.
  24. Jadad AR, Moore RA, Carroll D et al. Assessing the quality of reports of randomized clinical trials: is blinding necessary? Control Clin Trials. 1996;17(1):1–12. [PubMed] [Google Scholar]
  25. Kim H, Kim N, Jung S et al. Improvement in skin wrinkles from the use of photostable retinyl retinoate: a randomized controlled trial. Br J Dermatol. 2010;162(3):497–502. [PubMed] [Google Scholar]

 

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